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Can you change to a longer fitting with more threads? You will have to re flair the tube, which is a pain.

No offense about hose man, but I know they don't make AC lines or brake hoses. Most hose shops do not work with tube or DOT stuff. Maybe they have branched out some and I did not notice.

I don't think hose-man or any hose guys make fuel injection line (I may be wrong though). You might want to try a specialty shop that does AN and brake lines. We have a shop here in so cal called G&J surplus that makes that kind of stuff. Make sure you have the right tool to remove the line...

Not sure if this is much help (mine was a TIPM problem) but lots of trial and error here: https://wranglerjkforum.net/threads/no-start-signal-on-07-jku.32526/

As in the key/ignition switch is not sending the signal to turn over? (no crank, no start)

I assumed it was the TIPM. I know you mentioned the issue earlier in this thread, but can you re play what is happening?

I believe if you have 4wd and AT tires, you don't need chains. At least that is what I am told at checkpoints headed to Big Bear. At a certain point, a sign says "chains required", it is a rotating sign, so it is only out during certain times. later up the road, if it is actively freezing and...

From the looks, the tabs may fold over to create tension, or get removed to allow the clamp to tension. The glue may be to keep the clamp in a proper orientation so the tab can be removed. I am basing this off of the yellow tab, as I can see it better. Blue tab may get slid off sideways That is...

Couple that with a few EMP's. We did this to ourselves.

This is what I did. The two extra cylinders did make it sound cool. One thing that made it sound way better was to have stage II trans installed. Did not realize how a slipping and dying trans made the two extra cylinders sound like they were starving. The shop adjusted the shift points too via...

It is nice when a thing or two roll your way!

Ya, I would not pay to try that. It is a low odds win.

Good to have some feedback! I have no clue what good numbers are. Teraflex said 5.5º-7.0º on the castor is optimal. My shop (who does a lot of dana 60's) said 4º to 5º is a good target. I will say it is quieter and rolls much easier. Teraflex put a 0.5º castor adjuster on the passenger side...

I am near certain these were American made. IIRC. https://teraflex.com/tj-tie-rod-end-large-taper-7-8-x-18-left-hand-thread.html

Make sure you know the specs of your tre's. Mine were straight and not offset, there are a bunch of configurations. The guys at teraflex really know their stuff and can ask you the right questions. Pics help a lot too.

Like this? This is an offset but kinda gives you the idea: https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-4920232-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B006D9WBV8?tag=wranglerorg-20

Ahh. That’s tricky. I assumed it was heads rebuilt. Not sure how I would proceed on a stud that had 150k on it. I might loosen to no torque but not pull, put some kroil or some lube that can reach the threads and under the nut or bolt surface for an accurate torque. At least you will have...

When you had the top rebuilt, did they do heads?

Can you re torque the head bolts/studs and re check? Maybe go a pound or two more than spec?

I just had my 07 JKU aligned after lots of front end work. I installed a Rebel coil over set up and installed new tie rod ends. The first attempt at aligning revealed a worn unit bearing. I had to bring it back from shop and wait for the bearing kit from Teraflex to arrive. I installed the new...