Search results

Wow, that is definitely worth considering!

Time is a one factor here... Is this an extra vehicle or your primary mode of transportation? Money is the other. What will they give you for a trade-in offer? You can then compare this to having it fixed and then selling it on the used private-party market. Let's say you can get $20k...

I installed a twin ARB on my SuperDuty and would love to have the same on the Jeep. Totally unnecessary but nice when you need it!

I would also remove the belt and check all the accessories for noticeably high friction/resistance. My guess would be either the alternator or A/C. Alternators can really start to smell like they're burning when they're going bad. This coupled with the belt rubber getting toasted could be...

Having the knowledge and experience to do this yourself is huge! I've had regears done in several vehicles but never attempted it myself.

Did this start with an overheating issue or was that a result of a water pump (or other part) change? I would do a combustion leak test on the coolant if you haven't already.

It will only have 3.73s if that option was selected. 3.21s are standard regardless of Sport or Sahara. You can verify with a VIN lookup to get the original window sticker or the feature content from Jeep.

I purchased from a local dealer. They agreed to the assessment using their own service dept. and included a powertrain warranty with the sale. It was only 3mos but gave me a bit more peace of mind that there wasn't any ongoing issues with it. They actually had it competitively priced vs...

Unfortunately the issues trickled into other years. Mine is a 2016 but I negotiated the sale based on a positive result for compression and leak down. Something you may want to think about to ensure you don't purchase one with early signs of degradation.

You'll want a later model year (15-17) to stay clear of the head and rocker/cam issues.

Be sure to show us some pics when you make the change!

I don't have a direct answer for you but will await a response as I've considered this size long-term once I install a proper lift. My guess is that you wouldn't absolutely need spacers but may have a bit of rub at full lock unless you add some washers to limit the steering (similar to running...

Are you talking about the the plastic tray inside the vehicle in front of the shifter? That's a new one for me.

Yep, Gates belt. I am going to try the water test again and also look at the crank pulley to see if there are any signs of the elastomer shifting. I have read about misalignment issues stemming from this.

I had a reply to a different post show that it was from today but the post was from months ago... 🤷🏻

Uploaded the video to YT: There are no other indications of anything wrong while driving, although I need to determine if it goes away with other conditions when not moving (higher rpm in park, D but with brakes engaged, etc) . Let me know if anyone has thoughts!

Some background... I was getting some high pitched "squeals/chirps" from the front of the engine after driving for awhile. Nothing at cold start and only would hear it if I was stopped at idle. It may be happening when driving but I can't hear it if it is. I sprayed a little water, noise...

My guess is junk factory clamps not fully seated and causing intermittent starting issues. Ask me how I know! Temp fix - loosen and tap them down to fully seat them Permanent fix - replacement

As a test/interim action you can loosen the terminals and take a socket and hammer and tap them down to make sure they are seated all the way on the terminal. Looks like your positive terminal isn't all the way down to me. Ultimately they should be replaced, though.

Follow-up: I ended up replacing the two idler pulleys and tensioner/idler assembly. I was still getting some noise after the belt change. Upon removal I found one of the idler bearings wasn't 100%. It would only starting making noise after a longer drive. I figured they were all the...